We were nodding silent approval as we approached The Colonnade Bar in Brighton. It is within the same building as the Theatre Royal and has a suitably theatrical air. As we entered we were smiling broadly; we loved it. But how to describe the Georgian interior with its vintage photos of old actors adorning the walls, Edwardian bar, gilt mirrors and red velvet seating? General manager Lyndon Brooker summed it up perfectly: “camp theatre plush”.
The Colonnade labels itself a gin boutique with Lyndon, its impresario, passing on his knowledge and love of gin. The staff are learning, and will recommend gins, garnishes and tonic. With 28 brands to choose from and regular guest gins the choice is good. Some of the gins on offer include Bathtub, Botanist, Warner Rhubarb, Monkey 47, Da Mhile, Hven, Boodles, Gin Mare, Bloom, Hoxton, Brighton and London No. 3.
Lyndon has been at The Colonnade for just over a year, during which time it has been refurbished, the gin choice expanded, garnishes experimented with, copa glasses introduced and ice to his own specification produced on site. Impressive stuff. When he started, Lyndon was selling five Bombay Sapphires to one craft gin. Now, the ratio is one to one.
We asked what garnishes they recommended. Good question; it turned out that Lyndon is passionate about his garnishes. He is on a mission to promote citrus peel rather than the slice. He believes, and we agree, that the flesh and juice can overpower the gin, while the peel with its rich essential oils enhances it. The garnish for every gin has been carefully thought through.
It was time to put this to the test and gin was poured. Mrs. Gin went for a local Blackdown gin with Fever Tree and ice, garnished with orange peel and mint. I chose Jinzu, a Japanese style gin that is actually produced in Scotland, served with Fever Tree Mediterranean tonic and an apple garnish to accentuate the floral taste. Both were beautifully crafted and tasted excellent.
The Colonnade is a bona fide gin joint, worth seeking out whether or not you’re going to the theatre. Gin drinkers are becoming more discerning and they are learning from places like The Colonnade; places that are both willing and able to pass on their knowledge and experience. I was impressed with the amount of time the bartender took with each customer, explaining the different gins and how they should be served. Gin is experiencing a renaissance but if it is to stay in the forefront it need places like this. We will be back.
